Latin America

Gallery – Birding in Panama

Gallery – Birding in Panama

The wildlife and especially the birdlife in Panama is simply amazing and too often I was unable to capture them well in photographs. Even the most modern smartphone camera gigantism is not enough, the flight distance of the shy animals is simply too much. So I’ve been carrying a longer lens for my mirrorless camera on our walks for a quarter of a year now. And all of a sudden, it’s become a new incentive to explore nature. So I spend hours and hours birding in Panama in the forest, in the mangroves or on the dinghy to get to know more and more of this diversity. All the photos were taken on the Caribbean side of Panama, between Colon and San Blas.

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Stranded in Linton Bay

Stranded in Linton Bay

We reach Linton Bay in early February – we have no idea that we will be stranded here for much longer. But staying in one place for longer also has its advantages. You get to know the people on the boats and on land. These people and their stories are particularly interesting in Linton Bay – and in many cases also quite weird.

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Gallery – Puerto Lindo

Gallery – Puerto Lindo

Back from San Blas, we are on anchorage near Puerto Lindo in Linton Bay. Here our friend Moni disembarks again, and Karin also sets off on a research trip to the Pacific coast. Meanwhile, I repair Mabul’s minor aches and pains and once again encounter major problems. The almost new cutlass bearing is already showing some play again, so there’s still something wrong. One way or another, Mabul has to go ashore again and a new cutlass bearing has to be ordered and delivered. But the area here has a high recreational value and so we explore various small islands, meet new animal friends and immerse ourselves in local life. This should actually be the last stop before the canal, the canal administration has already approved all the documents for the transit and Karin’s sister has also booked a flight to go through the canal with us as linehandlers. Once again, plans are there to be changed. Read more in the blog Stranded in Linton Bay

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Gallery – San Blas III

Gallery – San Blas III

From Isla Tigre, we sail on to Waisaladup in San Blas, where our friend Moni comes on board. We continue with her to the so-called swimming pool: here we meet up with many old friends from the Turtle Cay Marina in crystal-clear, turquoise waters. After various dream islands, we also make a detour with the dinghy into the Rio Mangles on the nearby mainland. The water is choppy, and every other wave sends a splash of spray over the bow – good thing our camera and phones stay dry in the little drybag. As we glide into the narrow channels between the mangroves, the scenery shifts completely: the lush green closes in around us, and the contrast to the sandy islets with palm trees couldn’t be more striking.

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South America’s first climate refugees: the real story behind

South America’s first climate refugees: the real story behind

The small island of Gardi Sugdub in Panama is in danger of sinking due to rising sea levels. As a result, almost all the inhabitants have been forced to leave their homes. This was reported by international media last summer. But reality is different.
Published in “Echo der Zeit” from 17.02.2025.

https://www.srf.ch/audio/echo-der-zeit/erste-klimafluechtlinge-suedamerikas-die-wahre-geschichte-dahinter

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Gallery – Isla Tigre

Gallery – Isla Tigre

After the very first anchorage of the season at Gardi Sugdub, we continue east in San Blas and sail to Isla Tigre. We are the only boat anchored there and feel like aliens at first. We peer through the camera and binoculars and observe what is happening on the island in front of us. Tourism doesn’t seem to have arrived here yet, nobody comes to Mabul to collect an anchoring fee, sell molas or fish. The former airstrip can only be recognized as such from the air; volleyball and soccer have long been played here. The village is surprisingly well developed with a hospital, school, functioning water and electricity supply, small stores and clean streets. We even find a restaurant and make friends with the crew of a Colombian merchant ship that is moored at the dock here.

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The sinking island of Gardi Sugdub

The sinking island of Gardi Sugdub

Last summer, a story went through the world press: «Klimawandel: Bewohner verlassen Insel in Panama», was the headline on ARD and «Gardi Sugdub: The Americas’ disappearing island» was the headline on the BBC. A sinking island is forcing its inhabitants to look for a new home on land. The island is called Gardi Sugdub and is located in San Blas, the autonomous territory of the Gunas, in Panama. An island paradise of more than 350 islands. Is Gardi Sugdub, the crab island, now deserted? Perhaps it has already sunk, we ask ourselves and set course for the island.

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A rearranged triangle relationship

A rearranged triangle relationship

Back on Mabul! Time for a brief review.

2024 is the year when everything changes again. It is also the year of a boat timeout. When we arrive in San Blas in Panama in January, we think we’ll be sailing through the canal and across the Pacific with our friends from SV My Motu shortly afterwards – but we don’t. Alex has nightmares for nights on end and constantly dreams of our rig failing. We listened to his gut feeling and stayed on the Caribbean side – as it turned out later: with good reason. Here is our review of 2024.

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