The dream and reality of our life on a sailing boat.
Our report appeared in the NZZ am Sonntag magazine on 13.10.2024.
Caribbean
Jungle Boatjobs
Boat projects hurricane season 2024 part 1
Our 2024 sailing season ends earlier than expected because Mabul breaks down every time we try to leave Panama. Well, I had put the Panama Canal on ice, but when trying to sail to the Bahamas, Mabul just soaked up the water in the anchor locker until it sloshed into the cabin. After I had repaired the damage in Cayos Albuquerque, I went straight back to the dry dock in Panama because of another problem, only to discover after four weeks of intensive work that the rudder bearing had significant play. Colombia? Nice try… Mabul wants to go back to dry dock. So she stays in Panama and I get to work on the boat projects for the hurricane season 2024.
Continue reading →Panama’s corrupt officials
Karin’s column about Panama’s corruption.
Published in “global” magazine from Alliance Sud, issue autumn 2024.
https://www.alliancesud.ch/de/panama
Download PDFGallery – Hurricane season in Panama
Refreshed and energized, we return from Jamaica to the Turtle Cay Marina, where Mabul is patiently waiting for us. We actually want to replace the rudder bearing as quickly as possible and then sail to Cartagena in Colombia to spend the hurricane season there. After some back and forth, we decide not to sail to Colombia but to spend the hurricane season in Panama. Mabul will therefore remain in the Turtle Cay Marina for most of the time, so the rudder bearing can wait for the time being and its repair can be planned properly. This immediately takes off all the pressure and stress, and we can relax and enjoy the untouched nature here. It’s already time for Karin to fly to Switzerland to work for the SRF for five months. Alex stays on board for another eight weeks and deals with lots of little things and some larger projects. One of them is the rebuild of our anchor windlass – the new pliers wrench proves to be a real all-rounder, especially for hard-to-reach bolts. More about it in the blog post Jungle Boatjobs. Then it’s off to Germany and Switzerland for him too, for the first time in two years…
Continue reading →Gallery – Jamaica
After Mabul is fixed, we make our way to San Blas. San Blas is over 200 nautical miles to the east, and we want to set off from here with an improved angle to Jamaica. The passage will be a tough ride upwind anyway. But we don’t want it to come to that. We continue to be dogged by bad luck and notice a loose rudder on the passage, the rudder bearing is completely worn out. As a result, we are unable to sail as far as Jamaica and Mabul has to be hauled out of the water again for repairs. While still in San Blas, we decide to park Mabul in the Turtle Cay Marina and fly to Jamaica for a (boat) vacation. It was a good decision. We enjoy two carefree and boat-free weeks on an incredibly green island in the best of company. We take a small rental car on a round trip through Jamaica, which takes us from Negril to Kingston and over the Blue Mountains to Portland and back.
Continue reading →The Cayo Guano lighthouse keepers
Our feature on the lighthouse keepers of Cayo Guano del Este in Cuba.
Published in NZZ, issue 3rd August 2024.
https://www.nzz.ch/reisen/reisen-die-leuchtturmwaerter-von-der-cayo-guana-del-este-ld.1825105
Download PDFGallery – Bocas del Toro
Finally, a weather window opens up that allows us to safely leave the atoll of Cayos Albuquerque without an engine, and we set sail. On the way, we are accompanied by a few birds that are still asleep when we drop anchor at eleven at night. There are lots of boat jobs to do here in Bocas del Toro. The priority is clearly to replace the cutlass bearing and find the cause of the rapid wear and tear. Before we haul out in Almirante, we spend a week close to Bocas and get all the provisions on board Mabul. The long-awaited and well-traveled gennaker has also finally arrived. Many thanks again to Stephan from our sponsor VM Sails! We tow Mabul the last ten miles to the shipyard with our dinghy moored alongside. Once there, the true extent of the damage becomes apparent after a few days. Once again, Alex works like mad for a whole three weeks before Mabul is floating in the water again.
Continue reading →Guna Yala
San Blas – The Mystical Paradise of the Guna
From Providencia, we’re cruising 270 nautical miles to San Blas, Panama. The archipelago consists of over 350 islands and islets and is governed by the indigenous Guna people, who call it Guna Yala. We clear into Panama on the main island, El Porvenir, and pay our contribution to the autonomous Guna authority. Porvenir is tiny, with little more than an airstrip and a few houses. While clearing in, one officer is mowing the grass while the other stamps our passports. Here, everyone does a bit of everything.
Continue reading →The supposed paradise
Karin’s column about Cayos Albuquerque, a Colombian atoll off the coast of Nicaragua.
Published in “global” magazine from Alliance Sud, issue Winter 2022/23.
https://www.alliancesud.ch/de/cayo-albuquerque
Download PDFLogbook for a happy life
Karin’s portraits of four sailors we met on our trip.
Published in NZZ, issue 21th Jun 2024.



